Japan Surfing
Japan surfing guide in English. I hope this site can serve Japan based surfers, those interested in Japan or surfers visiting Japan soon! I have also included information on surf travel and environmental issues important to surfers.
Wednesday, April 04, 2007
Saturday, March 24, 2007
Saturday, November 12, 2005
Sea Pollution
Many waste substances that have been disposed of into the sea can cause a variety of acute and chronic health conditions. The concentration, biological form, chemical form, physical form and survival of these pollutants are all aspects of whether humans would be exposed to them. There are two major ways in which humans can be contaminated by these pollutions. The first is direct contact either through the skin, lungs or by being digested; swimming in polluted sea water would be a good way of being contaminated by a direct contact method. The second way is an indirect way such as consuming plants or animals that have come from the contaminated area.
Indirect contamination is a significant way in which humans can be exposed to toxic organic chemical and metals because they can be bio accumulated in plants and animals that humans consume. Direct contamination is a less significant way in which humans can be exposed to toxic organic chemical and metals because they tend to be in sea water in low concentration. In the case of pathogens both methods can be significant because only small numbers of micro organisms to induce disease and because micro organisms can reproduce in infected animals and the environment.
'Conservative' and 'persistent' pollutants such as toxic metals and PCB's are broken down slowly if at all, while 'non conservative' and 'labile' pollutants such as biodegradable or volatile organic chemicals are rapidly broken down and removed from the environment. The 'conservative' and 'persistent' pollutants are the most problematic due to their environmental persistence enhances their chances of reaching and affecting humans.
There are three main categories of pollutants in the sea that can reach and have adverse affects on human health. First toxic metals such as arsenic, cadmium, lead and mercury, secondly synthetic organic chemicals such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), chlorinated hydrocarbons, pesticides (dioxins), 'specialised' chemicals polychlorinated biphynyls (PCBs) and thirdly human pathogens such as viruses, bacteria, fungi and parasites.
Metals are chemical elements and cannot be destroyed, broken down or degenerated in the environment. Toxic metals that have been disposed of in the sea have impacts concerning human health, especially arsenic, cadmium, lead and mercury. These four metals are particularly of concern because they are known to be toxic to human health and have been found in high concentration in river estuaries and the sea. Chromium, selenium and copper are found in less concentrations but are still of concern because they are in areas that come in contact with humans. Consumption of contaminated seafood is the major indirect route of human exposure to toxic metals. Marine organisms such as fish, crabs and shellfish bio accumulate these toxic metals through their gills when swimming and feeding on matter than have been contaminated. Arsenic, cadmium, lead and mercury can cause acute and chronic conditions including gastrointestinal haemorrhaging, comas, liver and nerve damage, skin and lung cancer, emphysema, anaemia, kidney, liver, pancreatic damage, bone damage, blood disorders, reproductive disorders, eye damage, respiratory impairments and skin lesions.
Organic chemicals are used in industry; these chemicals are used in pesticides, cosmetics, drugs and food additives. The behaviour of these chemicals in natural environments vary form accumulating in organisms to not, from decomposing rapidly when exposed to light, heat or water to being very resistant and from being metabolized by other organisms into compounds that are more or less toxic to resisting bio-degradation. Like toxic metals, organic chemicals have direct and indirect routes to affect human health, direct through contact with organic chemicals and indirect by ingesting contaminated animals and plants. The direct route of contact in the sea is rare as organic chemicals are only in low concentration; this method provides no ill effect on human health because of the low concentrations. Again, as with toxic metals the indirect route of consuming contaminated seafood would be the most harmful to human health. Chlorobenzenes, chlorinated pesticides, chlorinated hydrocarbons and aromatic hydrocarbons have all been found in seafood. These chemicals all have adverse human health effects such as causing cancer, skin and liver disorders.
Human pathogens are micro-organisms that are capable of inducing human diseases. Human pathogens enter the sea from the discharge of raw sewage, sewage sludge and wastewater effluent from sewage treatment plants. Pathogens are also found in commercial and domestic food waste, animal waste and biological waste from hospitals and laboratories. Many of these pathogens are discharged to surface waters or sewage treatment plants. In rural areas, bacterial contamination animal waste, runoff and poorly treated sewage discharge. The sea itself is a source of pathogens which occur and propagate naturally in marine waters. Viruses and bacteria are the most important of waste-borne agents of human diseases with respect to their concentration in waste and the environment and to diseases they cause. Both direct and indirect exposures to humans are significant ways of effecting human health. This is because only a small number of organisms are required to induce disease. Evidence has shown that some bacteria, including known human pathogens can survive in the sea for up to three months. Many parasites and viruses are very resistant to environmental destruction. Many human pathogens appear to survive better in coastal or estuary region than open ocean. Large areas of coastal or estuarine waters in the US have been closed to shellfish fishing due to contamination by sewage borne micro-organisms. Shellfish borne bacteria diseases have been responsible for typhoid, paratyphoid, cholera and viral gastroenteritis outbreaks in the US. Some bacteria diseases such as typhoid have been contracted by swimming or surfing in water that is contaminated with sewage. Many scuba divers have been affected by conditions such as dermatitis, wound infections and enteric illnesses.
In conclusion, it is best to eat fish and seafood that we know has come from the open ocean or from estuarine and coastal regions that have not been contaminated from industry or human waste. It is also wise to participate in water sports in areas that you know have not been contaminated by sewage or industrial waste.
About the Author
Stewart Hare C.H.Ed Dip NutTh
Advice for a healthier natural life website:
http://www.newbeingnutrition.com
Monday, November 07, 2005
Azuma Hokkaido Japan surf session
This place was pretty hard to find. When you are diving on this lonely road, there is a small dirt driveway which opens up into this wide beach. There were a lot of guys surfing (and surfer girls) but there were enough peaks that everyone could get enough waves (if that is possible).
It was a pretty fun surf session.
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Muroran Hokkaido Japan surf check
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There were a bunch of beginner surfers out on the beach break peaks as well as some hot locals near a neighboring reef/river mouth setup down the beach.
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Oshamanbe Hokkaido Japan surf check
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A recent typhoon swell had swept a lot of ocean junk onto the beach in the foreground but the water was clean.
This day I did not have my surfboard with me.
Western Japan Surf Guide
I have found a lot of good surf in Western Japan, especially near Osaka where I'm based from 1997-2003. Although having a car or a friend with a car proves to be indispensable, many surf spots are accessible by train. Although this guide is in no way complete or comprehensive, I hope it can provide a glimpse of the waves available.
Wakayama Prefecture
Wakayama Prefecture is the nearest surf location to Osaka. The prefecture dominates the Kii Peninsula that receives its swells from the Pacific. In summer, the south facing beaches get waves from low pressure systems near Guam, the Philippines and the Marianas. Each year about 20 typhoons affect Japan with many of those swells hitting Wakayama. The prefecture's breaks are almost all reef with the notable exception of Isonora. The water is warm and you only need surf trunks in the summer.
Isonora
Isonora is the closest surf beach to Osaka. The beach break waves are usually slow and mushy because the swells have to travel so far up the peninsula. Sometimes it does get good. There is a Nankai train station at the beach. It's easy to access from Osaka and Osaka's Namba station. By car it takes an hour to an hour and half from Osaka. The problem with the easy access is that the beach gets extremely crowded. It seems that all the surfers here are from Osaka.
Takura
Close to Isonora, Takura takes a big typhoon swell to break. The locals are reported to be fierce but usually well-mannered gaijin (foreigners) can surf hassle free. The shallow reef offers good surfers lots of left barrels.
Gobo
Further south is Gobo, near this town there are lots of beach, point and reef breaks. You can take a JR train to Gobo but then you're on your own to get to the beach. Gobo is the first town that is really exposed to the Pacific giving it better quality surf. Some of my Japanese surf friends love Gobo because of all the right point breaks and barrels.
Inami
The next town after Gobo is Inami. There is a great rivermouth/reef/pointbreak near the Kirime River. If you are going by train get off at the Kirime station. (NOTE: The station is a local station so make sure you change trains at Gobo if you took an express train from Tennoji or Wakayama. You'll go right by it unless you're on the right train. Ask the JR staff whether your train stops there.)
From the station it is only a couple of hundred meters to the beach. If you pass the Family Mart, you'll know you are heading in the right direction. There is a minshuku named Umemoto on the point you can stay at. Its a 20 yard walk to the beach.
This spot works best on a south swell during typhoon season.
Shingu
Around the corner of the peninsula, Shingu's rivermouth has a lot of waves. Be warned the currents can be nasty. A couple of locals told me that during big swells the shorebreak is reported to be similar to Waimea's. This place seems to pick up any swell well but is reportedly best in October and November after the sandbar is settled.
Shingu has many restaurants and things to do at night (relatively). If you go by train, you can walk to the beach from the station, it's a little far but doable. There is a stretch of trees next to the beach. If you see a forest then you're there. Head for the rivermouth.
If you are driving it takes 5 hours from Osaka (at night) along the coast but there is an over-the-mountain road that goes through Nara Prefecture that takes only 4 hours.
Mie Prefecture
Mie Prefecture is further north from Shingu. The main place to surf is Ise. Ise is an old Japanese shrine that is part of a large national park. It's a great place to visit if you are into traditional Japanese culture. The best thing about surfing Ise is that is clean. The water is extremely clear. The spots around Ise seem to be popular with the longboard scene. You'll see a lot of families on the beach watching Mom and Dad surf. Ise is accessible by car or by Kintetsu train from either Osaka or Nagoya.
For more information about Ise, check out the Surf Japan website's Japan guide. http://www.angelfire.com/sports/surfjapan/japan.html
Shikoku
Shikoku is arguably the best place to surf in Japan. The combination of swell, beach conditions, food, access and community support make Shikoku my favorite place to surf. Tokushima and Kochi Prefectures have many good surf spots.
Tokushima Prefecture
Tokushima is the first surf location on the island of Shikoku. As you move south, the coast turns to face the Pacific. The first notable spot is Kaifu.
Kaifu breaks on the river mouth of the Kaifu River. When all the conditions line up it is considered a world-class wave. One problem is that the authorities have been "adjusting" the river upstream and the spot doesn't get as much sand as it used to get. They are also setting up needless concrete pylons near the break at the entrance of the river. The rights are best but sometimes the lefts are equally good. When it's working the there are tons of great barrels. Boards get snapped left and right. One thing to note is that when it is on, the line up is full of pros and expert locals making it difficult to get waves. There is also a highly recommended okonomiyaki restaurant near the break.
Kochi Prefecture
Kochi prefecture is the main surf prefecture on Shikoku.
Ikumi
Located just over the border from Tokushima Prefecture, Ikumi is a long beach fed by a creek. There is surf year round but it is a great place to surf in summer. Left and right peaks. This is where Hold Out usually holds it surf contests. There are surfer run beach restaurants and inns at the beach. Kannora is the last station on the JR train line that runs from Tokushima City. By car it takes about 4 hours from Osaka to Ikumi (at night).
Click on this link to view Ikumi beach's webcam. http://www.town.toyo.kochi.jp/wave/wave.htm
Ozaki
About 45 minutes south of Ikumi, Ozaki is a hard breaking reef break. The locals have spray painted a warning (written in English) on the wall saying that it is a shallow reef and surf at your own risk.
Shina
Continuing south and almost at the end of Cape Muruto, Shina is a left reef break with a deep channel. Sometimes there is a right on the other side of the channel too. This is my favorite spot in Japan. Takes size to break but when it does it is an excellent wave.
Kochi coastline
Following the coast, there are many other spots to choose from. All the way on the other side of the island, near the city of Nakamura, is the river mouth of the Shimantogawa River. This is one of the most beautiful rivers in Japan. Also, amazingly, it is reportedly the only one that is not dammed. This river brings a lot of sand to the coast and I think the beach breaks around the town are excellent. The water is also very clean. To get to Nakamura it takes about 4 hours from Kochi City by JR train. It takes me about 8 hours by car from Osaka. There are a variety of breaks near Nakamura and along the cape. If there is no swell there is plenty to do like kayaking (the river) or fishing. I found the locals to be really friendly and the food to be excellent.
A more comprehensive look at Kochi's surf spots is at Outdoor Japan's website. http://www.outdoorjapan.com/activities/surfing/activities-surfing-ag-kochi-1.html
Kyushu
The main thing I know about Kyushu is that the ramen is excellent but there is also a lot of surf too. As the transportation is more developed than Shikoku, it comparably easier to get around if you don't have a car. There are a lot of good breaks near Miyazaki City, and in the Nichinan and Osumi areas. In Miyazaki there is also a wave pool at the Seagaia resort that is supposed to be quite good (as far as wave pools go).
The following link describes surfing in Miyazaki. http://www.rice.edu/projects/topics/edition03/surfing.htm
Okinawa Prefecture
People with time should visit Okinawa prefecture. Okinawa's climate is subtropical and there are a lot of top quality reef breaks. The main islands are accessible by air or ferry while the smaller islands are accessible by ferry only.
Better information is available on the excellent Okinawa surf website, Mensoresurfing. http://www.mensoresurfing.com
A lot more information about Western Japan's surf is available in Beachcombing Magazine. Pick up a free copy at Hold Out surf shop.
Please let me know if you have any comments, additions or feedback.
Thanks,
Jeff Preston
jeff@hold-out.com